You’ve heard the saying, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it,” which is exactly what sprung to mind when I learnt that Armani had reformulated its beloved Luminous Silk Foundation. Unchanged for over 25 years, the iconic base remains a go-to for makeup artists, beauty editors and celebrities alike – from Martha Stewart to Cate Blanchett and Gemma Chan. Which begs the question: why change it at all?
But Armani isn’t alone. In a similar move, Estée Lauder recently announced a reformulation of its best-selling Double Wear Foundation, signalling a wider shift in the industry. The common thread? A move towards skincare-first formulas that don’t just perfect the look of skin but support it too.
In Armani’s case, the new Luminous Silk now includes glycerin, niacinamide and Mediterranean floral extracts, designed to boost hydration, enhance radiance and improve skin tone over time. There’s also an expanded 44-shade range (with 18 new additions), making it more inclusive than ever. On paper, it all sounds promising, but when a formula reaches icon status, the real question is whether the update enhances it or if the original still holds its ground.
We put the original Luminous Silk Foundation and new version to the test
I’ll admit, I’m someone who approaches reformulations with caution, particularly when it comes to complexion products. When you find a foundation that works for your skin, particularly as it becomes drier or more textured over time, it’s not something you want to lose. So, I tested the original and the reformulated Luminous Silk side-by-side to see how they really compare.
The Original
Luminous Silk Foundation was the first matte foundation I truly fell for. At a time when matte often meant flat, it felt like a bit of a revelation to find a base that was breathable and lightweight yet still allowed your natural radiance to shine through. The texture is fluid and easy to work with, blending seamlessly into the skin with just a small amount of product. Coverage is buildable but never heavy, helping to conceal redness or pigmentation, blur the look of pores and even out tone without masking the skin entirely.
And thanks to its light-reflecting pigments, it creates a soft-focus effect, smoothing over texture without looking overly dewy or one-dimensional. On skin that’s showing fine lines or dryness, it remains incredibly forgiving – sitting comfortably without clinging or settling in the way heavier formulas can. With 40 shades and hydrating glycerin in the formula, it suits a wide range of skin tones and types. It also wears beautifully throughout the day and photographs so well, with no flashback – something that’s made it a long-standing favourite among makeup artists.
The New Formulation
On first impressions, the updated Luminous Silk stays reassuringly close to the original. The texture is still fluid and silky, blending easily into the skin and offering that same lightweight, buildable coverage the foundation is known for. But look a little closer, and the differences start to show. The biggest change is the addition of skincare ingredients, namely niacinamide and Mediterranean floral extracts, which give the formula a more hydrating feel. On application, skin looks fresher and slightly more radiant, with a subtle glow that leans a touch dewier than before. Over time, the brand claims improvements in tone and texture, positioning it as more of a hybrid between makeup and skincare.
The finish still sits within that signature “your skin, but better” territory, but there’s a noticeable boost in luminosity – something that will appeal particularly to those dealing with dullness or loss of radiance. On drier or more mature skin, it feels comfortable throughout the day, maintaining hydration without slipping or settling into fine lines. There’s also a more inclusive shade offering, now expanded to 44 tones, with additional undertones designed to better match olive and deeper complexions. While the overall effect remains true to the original, this version does feel superior – delivering a fresh, more natural finish that’s great for everyday wear.
There’s no doubt that Armani’s new Luminous Silk Foundation is one of the best foundations for mature skin. The added hydration and boosted luminosity make it especially well-suited to skin that’s starting to feel drier or look a little less even. That said, the differences between the two aren’t dramatic.
Ultimately, the reformulation feels less like a reinvention and more like a modern update that brings the formula in line with what many of us are looking for now. Think fresher, slightly glowier complexions, with the same lightweight, skin-like finish that made it a classic in the first place.
