Tomatoes, ubiquitous in everything from fast-food burgers to haute cuisine, are taking on a new role beyond the plate in the United States: a nagging reminder of rising costs.
Prices for those red orbs have soared more than any other food product over the past year for US consumers.
"The tomato has become a symbol of something much deeper," said Isaac Bernal Carbajo, a New York City chef who lamented life's "simplest pleasures" falling victim to price increases.
"Something as basic as buying fresh vegetables is starting to become a serious financial decision for many families."
Tomato prices are up about 40 per cent over a year ago, according to the latest US Consumer Price Index, dwarfing increases for other groceries, including coffee (up 18.5 per cent), beef roasts (up 17.8 per cent) and frozen fish and seafood (up 12 per cent).