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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Travel
Katrina Mirpuri

An insider’s very comprehensive guide to Mumbai

Mumbai is a city that runs on adrenaline. There’s excellent food on every street corner, and whatever you desire - a martini, a midnight dosa or a trendy new outfit — is just one short rickshaw ride away. Like London, it’s known for its world-class hotels, restaurants, shops and bars, offering everything from high-end luxury to cheap and cheerful experiences.

It may not be India’s political capital, but culturally, Mumbai has all the magnetism of one. A mish-mash of cultures coexist, and each neighbourhood feels like its own mini city. In the south, Colaba is defined by the grandeur of the Gateway of India, fading colonial façades and old-school glamour. Further north, Bandra, Khar and Pali Hill have a Soho sensibility, with independent boutiques, low-lit cocktail bars and cafés filled with artists, fashion types and film stars.

In recent years, Mumbai has captured the attention of the global West like never before. The wedding celebrations of Anant Ambani and Radhika Merchant drew everyone from Kim Kardashian to Mark Zuckerberg to the city. Dior staged a landmark show against the backdrop of the Gateway of India, and Lollapalooza India brought artists such as Yungblud and Tyla to its stages.

A sunset view of the Gateway of India (Getty Images/iStockphoto)

As a British-Indian person, I grew up visiting Mumbai, or ‘Bombay’ as my family calls it. My Mother was raised in Bandra, one of the city’s coolest neighbourhoods, and as a result I’ve had the privilege of visiting almost every year, and getting to know the city like it’s my own.

This guide is my edit of where to stay, shop, party, eat and drink. Whether you’re hunting for highly rated street food spots, unforgettable hotel stays, or chic fashion boutiques, consider this your insider’s handbook to Mumbai.

Where to stay

Soho House Mumbai

(Soho House Mumbai)

Soho House is usually for members only, but their site in Mumbai is available to book for non-members. With their array of exclusive events, brilliant food offerings and stunning rooftop pool area, this is by far one of Mumbai’s coolest stays. And it’s located in the buzzy area of Juhu, which is right on the city’s scenic coastline.

The hotel is a regular hangout for A-listers and Mumbai’s creative circle. Aside from the celebrity spotting, there are many draws to staying here. There’s a screening room, spacious gym, rooftop pool and four dining locations. If you enjoy nightlife, this hotel is renowned for booking Mumbai’s hottest DJs, with guests congregating on the hotel rooftop to dance into the early hours, sipping on the famous Soho House picantes.

The hotel rooms are kitted out with the famously stylish Soho Home interiors, with the addition of Indian embellishments such as the fabric on the lampshades and the stylish block print bedspreads. Not only is the room beautiful, but the complimentary amenities are quite impressive. You get a full range of skincare from the brand Soho skin, along with a wooden toothbrush, wooden razor and cork flip flops, all of which are made from sustainable materials.

As for their food offering, the house menu offers Indian classics like paneer, butter chicken and lamb kebabs alongside western classics such as sandwiches and salads. There’s also a restaurant called Maya which offers a rotating menu, along with the Mumbai local favourite, Cecconi's, which offers all-day Italian dining for both members and non-members.

This is the ideal place for creatives looking for a chic stay in the heart of Mumbai’s nightlife and food district.

Rooms from £128 per night, sohohouse.com

The Kin

(The Kin)

This is one of Mumbai’s newer independent boutiques, run by siblings Guneet and Imrum Singh. The design-led hotel has 15 rooms, and boasts Instagram-worthy interiors with spaces mindfully filled with beautiful art and furnishings. Its blue and white theme runs throughout the hotel, right from the stationery in the room to the little accents of blue on the phone in the room or the stitching on the towels. The rooms have a familiar cosiness to them, and the standout feature has got to be the gigantic stone terrazzo tub.

The hotel’s in-house restaurant Terttulia, which opened just over 10 years ago is a favourite amongst locals and those in the know. It offers Italian-inspired cuisine in a relaxed ambience. It’s a hotspot for date nights and lazy brunches.

It feels like Mumbai’s answer to The Hoxton, but smaller and without the price tag. Located in the centre of the city in Dadar West, this is ideal for those who want to be in the middle of the city and are looking for somewhere chic to stay without parting with too much cash.

Rooms from £86 per night, thekinhotel.com

Four Seasons

The Four Seasons is recognised for its polished hospitality, and this city property shows off the city’s modernity and old school hospitality. It’s located in the middle of the city, so it’s ideal for those looking to travel around the city. With a pool, spa and a choice of casual and fine dining, you have everything you need on site. Saying that, the popular eatery, The Bombay Canteen is just a 5 minute drive away, and the city’s bustling Colaba causeway and Museum of India are a short distance away.

The hotel is currently undergoing a renovation, and the new rooms boast clean cut interiors with city views. The hotel’s rooftop bar AER is one of the city’s hottest destinations. It is located on the 34th floor making it the highest sky bar in the city. If you’re looking for a stylish late night haunt with cocktails and DJs, book yourself a table here.

This hotel is a hit with young professionals and is a place to be seen. On the 33rd floor, there’s a private members’ club, and its health club services are on par with the city’s top gyms.

Rooms from £162 per night, fourseasons.com/mumbai

Fairmont

(Fairmont Mumbai)

Having recently celebrated its one year anniversary, the Fairmont has quickly become one of Mumbai’s hottest 5-star hotels. The site is located just next to Mumbai’s main airport, and some of the rooms boast an impressive view of the runway, which makes for perfect viewing with a morning coffee. Aside from its spacious rooms, the hotel offers four restaurants, premium spa services and an advanced longevity centre. At the longevity centre, guests can book one-to-one consultations with a doctor, and receive tailored top of the range treatments such as cryotherapy, hyperbaric therapy, intermittent vaccum therapy, red light therapy and more. This is a huge draw for those looking to feel and look their best before big events, or simply to relax after a long flight.

In hotel dining options range from Sichuan and Cantonese flavours at Oryn, Mediterranean food at Samaa, Indo-French offerings at Madeleine de Proust and international food offerings at The Merchants, which boasts six live kitchens.

A standout has got to be the breakfast buffet, at The Merchants, where you’ll find everything from Indian breakfast staples such as aloo paratha and dosa to baked goods and continental foods. In the unlikely chance you don’t find what you’re looking for, the staff are ready go above and beyond to accommodate you.

Rooms from £133 per night, fairmont.com

Where to eat

Masque

This is one of Mumbai’s most respected fine dining institutions. It’s located down an inconspicuous alleyway, and its modern interiors boast eye catching art works which pop on the minimalist grey concrete walls. Guests can choose between a cocktail or wine pairing with their 10 course chef's tasting menu. If you have any hesitations about drinking Indian wine, there is no better place to discover the country’s new premium offering as the restaurant’s sommelier has a wonderful selection from small winemakers.

The tasting menu starts with a short field trip to the kitchen, where your server shows you to a cooking station where your first course is prepared. Once you have eaten that first bite, the waiter takes a polaroid picture of you which is then handed back to you to keep at the end of your meal — a great way to end a night of great food and drink.

This menu is a great way to discover Indian cuisine through an elevated lens, without unnecessary gimmicks. It’s the perfect balance of theatre and flavour.

masquerestaurant.com

Americano

This chic Italian restaurant is right in the middle of Mumbai's most popular Kala Ghoda neighbourhood. It’s the perfect place to stop for a long lunch during a busy day of shopping at all the local boutiques. From staples such as Cacio e pepe to pizza, you’ll find Italian classics alongside some fun in-house creations. They also have an impressive cocktail menu, which sits alongside wonderful wines. Make sure you save room for dessert. The chocolate tart is rich in all the right ways, and the tiramisu is a standout.

americanobombay.com

Indian Accent

Set inside the shiny new Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre, Indian Accent brings one of India’s most celebrated modern restaurants to the city. The original opened in New Delhi back in 2009, before going on to win international acclaim with an outpost in New York.

In Mumbai, the kitchen is led by Head Chef Rijul Gulati, a protégé of Culinary Director Manish Mehrotra, and the food reflects that same playful, inventive approach. The 10-course tasting menu is a whistle-stop tour across the country, reworking regional dishes in clever, often surprising ways.

One standout course reimagines pani puri in five miniature shells, each filled with a different flavoured water, inspired by the chef’s childhood memories. Another is the kulfi sorbet, which comes served in a mini pressure cooker, a staple cooking utensil used in Indian kitchens.

indianaccent.com/mumbai

Mizu Izakaya

If you’re curious about what happens when Japanese cooking meets Mumbai’s love of bold flavour, Mizu Izakaya is a good place to start. This is where you come for sushi, and sushi with a kick.

The menu offers Japanese favourites such as tempura, bao, sushi and ramen, but isn’t afraid to play around with spice and seasoning in a way that pleases the local palate. The sizzling grilled potato mochi filled with cheese is just one of the restaurant’s unique dishes, and the staff are on hand to assist you to find the perfect sake pairing to go alongside your meal. One of the joys of dining in Mumbai is the unexpected Indian twist which is put on certain cuisines.

The Bombay Canteen

The Bombay Canteen is a true gem in Mumbai’s food scene. Their reimagined dishes explore India’s culinary heritage with a modern twist, earning them numerous culinary awards along the way. The seasonal menu means there’s always something new to try, with each plate carrying a playful, inventive touch. The food is innovative without feeling pretentious, and the restaurant’s laid-back setting makes it perfect for special occasions or even drop-in lunches.

Diners can order a la carte or opt for the ‘Canteen Experience,’ a tasting-style journey that showcases the restaurant’s most iconic dishes. Highlights include the Chilled Sea Bass “Sev Puri” and the Podi Beef Tartare, served with crisp dosa chips. And don’t skip dessert. The Coffee Rasgulla Tiramisu is so good it’s also served at their sister spot, The Bombay Sweet Shop, alongside favourites like gulab jamun churros.

It’s the kind of place where flavours surprise without ever feeling unfamiliar, and the inventive, ever-changing menu keeps you coming back again and again.

thebombaycanteen.com

O Pedro

O Pedro is a sunny, relaxed spot that brings the coastal flavours of Goa straight into the city. Created by the team behind The Bombay Canteen, the menu celebrates regional Goan specialties with a mix of timeless classics and inventive twists.

Designed for sharing, the small plates, mains, and sides encourage diners to try a little of everything, making it perfect for groups. Highlights include coconut-laced curries, rich seafood stews, and Portuguese-influenced snacks, but there’s something for everyone, whatever your dietary preferences. Full of flavour, colour, and playful attention to detail, O Pedro is a masterclass in contemporary Goan dining.

opedromumbai.com

JW Marriott brunch

The Sunday brunch at Juhu’s JW Marriott hotel is a Mumbai rite of passage. By no means is it the best restaurant in the city, but each week their lower ground floor restaurant turns into an all-out global buffet with live music and lively open cooking stations.

You’ll find just about everything: regional Indian dishes, pasta and pizza stations, dumplings, noodles, fresh salads and waffles. The list goes on and on. It’s unapologetically over the top, but that’s exactly the appeal. If you’re only in the city for a short while and you want the opportunity to try a bit of everything, including delicious Mumbai street food, this is a great place to start. Just make sure you come hungry.

marriott.com

Casual dining

Shiv Sagar

Vegetarian food is a staple in Mumbai food culture, and Shiv Sagar is one of the city’s most iconic vegetarian dining institutions. It’s the kind of place generations of families have been coming to for years, and it’s reliable and unfussy. The menu is packed with crowd-pleasers and comfort foods such as rich, buttery pav bhaji to South Indian staples like dosa. It’s also known for its Jain-friendly options (Jainism food follows strict vegetarianism, which aims to minimise harm to all living things), which has helped cement its reputation as an easy, inclusive go-to. You don’t need to book either, which is a plus if you’re hungry and on the go.

shivsagarrestaurant.com

Shree Thaker Bhojanalay

This legendary Gujarati thali restaurant has been going since 1945, and is as good as it gets. This long running local has built a loyal following over the years, not just among locals, but also among visiting chefs, including Karan Gokani (Hoppers) and Ravinder Bhogal (Jikoni).

They specialise in serving Gujarati food with some inspiration from Rajasthan. Once seated, you’ll be presented with a large round steel thali (plate), which comes with individual pots. Staff will start to fill up each of these pots with a variety of dals, bhajis, vegetables and savoury snacks. You’ll also be served bread, rice and dessert sweets. Moreish flavours of sweet, sour and spice all balance out with each mouthful, and these are then refilled again and again until you physically tell them to stop. It’s the perfect example of Indian hospitality, and it’s generous to the point of overindulgence, but that’s all part of the experience.

shreethakerbhojanalay.com

Benne Dosa

(Benne dosa)

As of now, Benne Dosa is one of Mumbai’s most talked about eateries. With queues that can last up to an hour, this dosa joint has the city in a chokehold with their benne dosa. So, what exactly is a benne dosa? Unlike the ultra-thin, crisp South Indian dosa most people know, a benne dosa hails from Bangalore and is cooked with a slightly thicker batter until it’s golden, buttery, and satisfyingly crisp on the outside while soft inside.

There are currently two locations in Mumbai, and my advice is to aim for off-peak hours, between lunch and dinner, to avoid long waits. Once you’re inside, don’t just stick to the dosa. The ghee podi idli is a must-try. The big fluffy rice cake comes generously coated with spiced lentil powder and ghee. Make sure you wash it down with a classic filter coffee.

If you find yourself faced with a huge queue, locals swear by KTR (Karnataka Tiffin Room), who also do a cracking benne dosa. Either way, there are few places that serve this style of dosa in the city, but Benne does in fact live up to the hype.

benne.in

Elco

If you want a taste of authentic Mumbai street food, without worrying about hygiene, Elco is your safest bet. They use mineral water for all of their dishes, so you can enjoy the classics like pani puri without a second thought.

You can dine inside, or stand outside and enjoy things like chaat and pani puri by the street.

Their pani puri is a must-try. To order, you simply choose whether you want sweet water, spicy water, or a mix of the two. You’ll then be handed a fresh batch of pani puri on a plate, which you can enjoy on the spot.

Aside from the pani puri ritual, the menu covers all the classic street eats like chaat, crispy fritters, tangy bhel and more. After your feast, you can wander Turner Road’s endless shops and market stalls, soaking up the colour and energy of one of Mumbai’s most happening areas.

elcorestaurants.com

Where to drink

Woodside Inn, Bandra

This is the closest you can get to a traditional pub in Mumbai. It’s not trying to be British in any kind of way, but its cosy interiors and soft lighting make for the perfect environment to enjoy some drinks and nibbles. Their daily happy hour is a hit with locals as it conveniently runs from 4-8pm. They have an interesting range of local craft beers on tap including IPA, stout and lager, alongside a selection of soft drinks, cocktails and wine. As for food they have everything from bar snacks to bigger plates, with their specials changing on a regular basis. Woodside Inn also has branches in Colaba and Andheri, but the Bandra one has the best atmosphere. If you’re looking for a post-pub snack, Punjab Sweet House next door is open late, and offers delicious chaat and sweet treats at great prices.

neighbourhoodhospitality.com

Cafe Mondegar

If you’re out shopping in Colaba causeway, Cafe Mondegar is the perfect pit stop. This is Leopold Cafe’s underrated little sister. Leopold, which featured in the hit novel Shantaram, is a Mumbai staple, however, it’s often rammed with tourists, with longer wait times. Cafe Mondegar is a mere two minutes down the causeway, and offers a similar menu, ice cold beers and plenty of seating. Their chilli cheese toast is a popular order here, and it goes perfectly alongside a cold pint of beer. This is the perfect place to gather with friends or for a solo drink. Make sure you check out their retro jukebox which is packed with Bollywood and rock and roll hits.

Old Street Cafe and Bar

This hyper-local haunt is packed with punters who come for cold beverages and plates of delicious spicy savoury snacking foods. Drinking culture in India is incomplete without food, and this no frills bar has the energy of a noisy canteen and laid back bar combined. If you’re looking for a super affordable buzzy spot, this is perfect. You won’t find any tourists here either.

Independent boutiques

Polite Society

For Mumbai fashion insiders, Polite Society is one of the city’s coolest boutiques. The ready-to-wear brand was founded in 2020, with its flagship store opening in Bandra West just recently. The boutique offers a curated selection of men’s and women’s apparel in a conceptual, gallery-like space. The brand is a favourite among the fashion girlies and Bollywood celebrities.

politesocietyshop.com

Call of the Valley

Tucked away on a side street in Bandra, Call of the Valley is a small hidden gem specialising in natural perfumes. Fragrances are crafted from ingredients like rose, sandalwood and oud, and come in both oil and spray form. Whether you’re a fragrance collector or simply looking for a thoughtful souvenir, it’s one of Mumbai’s most charming artisan shops. A quiet favourite among those who know where to look.

callofthevalley.com

Bhavya Ramesh Jewelry

If you love striking gold and silver pieces, Bhavya Ramesh is one to know. With outposts in neighbourhoods like Bandra and Kala Ghoda, these aren’t your typical Indian jewellery stores. Each store feels more like a museum of art rather than a traditional jewellery shop. Display shelves entice you to try on various pieces.

The Indian designer has built a cult following for her extroverted, sculptural gold pieces, such as the statement nail rings, chunky necklaces and decorated sunglasses. There’s a chance you may have already spotted the brand on Instagram.

bhavyaramesh.com

Jaywalking

Mumbai’s streetwear scene is rapidly growing, and this Mumbai-born brand is a personal favourite. Jaywalking is known for its bold, graphic-heavy designs and limited drops that feel more like collectibles than everyday clothes.

Their recent sample sale, which was advertised on Instagram, drew in fans from across the entirety of India. Despite how in-demand the brand has become, it’s still somewhat of a cult hit due to their limited drops.

jaywalking.in

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