The testicles of Milan’s most famous bull have once again become a matter of civic concern.
For generations, visitors have queued up inside Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II to spin on their heels on the pink tiles depicting a bull’s testicles, an unusual tradition believed to bring good luck and guarantee a return to the city.
More than a century of enthusiastic heel-spinning has left its mark.
This week, workers erected a protective barrier around the famous mosaic as Milan began restoring the artwork for the first time since 2017.
“Thousands of people every day... have performed the famous heel-spinning. The Galleria’s lucky spot has worn away over time,” councillors Emmanuel Conte and Marco Granelli said in a statement.
Bull market
The mosaic occupies a prominent place in the Octagon, the central crossroads of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, a 19th-century shopping arcade connecting Piazza del Duomo with Piazza della Scala.
Built between 1865 and 1877, the Galleria is famed for its soaring glass roof, tile floors and luxury boutiques, ranging from Gucci and Prada to posh patisserie Marchesi 1824.
The torino (‘little bull’) is one of four floor mosaics depicting the coats of arms of cities associated with the Kingdom of Italy. As its name suggests, it represents Torino, or Turin – Italy’s capital when construction of the Galleria began – while Rome is represented by a wolf, Florence by a lily and Milan by its red cross.
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No one knows exactly when or why the heel-spinning tradition began, but it was already popular among Milanese before the turn of the 20th century.
Those seeking a stroke of luck will be pleased to learn the renovation isn’t major. It merely involves removing damaged sections of the mosaic, consolidating the underlying surface and installing replacement tiles before the area is grouted and smoothed.
Work started earlier in the week and is expected to be completed by the weekend. If history is any indication, however, it will likely prove to be a temporary fix.
